Pink & Yellow Flower Dome Button Set

Condition the pink and yellow clay fully until smooth and pliable. A firm clay like Premo or FIMO Professional keeps the petal edges crisp under the dome.

Build an even pink blank: roll one even pink slab on a pasta machine or between thickness guides so every button bakes and wears the same, aiming for a sturdy sew-through thickness (roughly the thickness in the dimensions, on the thicker end for strength). Cut the blanks with a round button cutter so the set matches.

Flower option A (cutter applique): dust a mini six-petal flower cutter with cornstarch, cut yellow daisies from a thin yellow slab, and press one onto each pink blank. This is the most repeatable way to keep all six flowers identical.

Flower option B (hand-cut applique): cut six small petals or a freehand daisy shape by hand with a tissue blade or fine blade and lay them on the blank. This gives a slightly more organic, one-of-a-kind flower if you do not own a flower cutter.

Flower option C (cane slice): build a small yellow flower cane, reduce it by squeezing and pulling (not rolling, so the petal gaps survive), then slice thin daisies with a stiff tissue blade and lay one on each blank. Best when you want many matched flowers from one build.

Seat the flower so it stays raised: press it lightly, and if it lifts at the edges brush a thin film of liquid polymer clay underneath and press only the outer edge down so the petals keep their crisp top. Add a tiny flattened pink dot to each flower center.

Pierce two clean sew-through holes in the raw blank, one on each side of the pink center dot, holding a needle tool vertical and going fully through the yellow layer front to back. Keep the holes well inside the rim with a solid clay margin so they will not tear under thread, and make them a touch larger than your needle plus doubled thread.

Bake the buttons FLAT on parchment set on a ceramic tile, and leave them on the tile through the whole bake so the edges cannot curl. Bake at your clay brand's package temperature and for the full package time (longer is fine for buttons); use an oven thermometer and tent with foil if your oven scorches.

Let the buttons cool completely, then check the holes are clear and true them up with a needle or a fine drill in a pin vise if any closed slightly.

Dome option 1 (clear resin dome): tape over the sew-through holes on both faces so resin cannot flood them. Wearing gloves with eye protection in good ventilation, add a clear UV resin or two-part epoxy resin labeled for baked polymer clay, spread it to the edges so it self-levels into a dome, pop any bubbles, and cure exactly as the resin label directs.

Dome option 2 (clear clay cabochon dome): instead of resin, before baking shape a shallow dome of clear or translucent clay over the flower (or press it in an oven-safe cabochon mold), smooth any fingerprints with a brush of isopropyl alcohol, then bake it as one piece. This bakes hard with no resin step, though it reads slightly less glassy than a poured dome.

For the resin route, once the resin has fully cured with no tacky feel, remove the tape and clear any stray resin from the holes with a fine needle. If you want extra shine on a clay cabochon dome, sand and buff it or brush a thin water-based glaze, testing on baked scrap first.

Thread-test one finished button to confirm the holes pass a doubled thread cleanly, then stitch the set on. Fully cured bare clay is washable, but resin-domed buttons should be hand-washed and hung to dry to keep the dome clear.