Lookbook view
Styled context
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These are two-part dangles: a small yellow daisy stud at the ear, then a white teardrop drop packed edge to edge with raised red and yellow daisies, linked by one short gold jump ring. Despite the name, the close-up reads as hand-placed flower applique in raised relief, not cane slices, because each blossom sits up off the white ground and casts its own little shadow. Make both teardrops as a mirrored pair from one even white slab, build the daisies separately so they stay plump, leave a little white showing between them, and place the hanging holes at the same height on both before baking.
A matched pair of statement dangles. Each one is a small yellow daisy stud at the top linked by a single short gold jump ring to a white teardrop drop that is covered in raised red and yellow daisies, every flower with a contrasting center dot (red centers on the yellow flowers, yellow centers on the red ones). The petals carry a fine grainy sparkle and a soft sheen, while small slivers of the white teardrop ground show between the blossoms so the surface reads dimensional rather than flat or printed.
Hand-placed floral applique in raised relief on a cut teardrop slab, with a separate daisy stud topper. The daisies can be made three proven ways: cut with a small daisy cutter, pressed from a silicone flower mold, or sliced from a simple flower cane and laid on as raised units. Whichever you pick, bond the flowers raw-on-raw with a thin film of liquid clay, cut the two teardrops as a mirrored pair, then link the topper and drop with a gold jump ring after baking.
Condition each color to the same firmness so it presses cleanly, then roll one even white slab using slab-height guide rails so both teardrops come out the same thickness and stay light. Cut both teardrops with the same cutter, and flip the second blank so the pair mirrors; cut two small yellow daisies for the stud toppers at the same time.
Give the white teardrop ground a fine pebbled texture if you want, then build the small daisies. Flower option A - cut them with a small daisy cutter in two or three sizes so the topper daisy reads a touch larger than the body daisies. Flower option B - press conditioned clay into a silicone flower mold, dust the mold with cornstarch first, and pop out matched plump blossoms. Flower option C - build a simple flower cane, rest it a day, reduce it from the center outward, chill it, and slice thin raised rounds.
Roll tiny contrasting center balls (red for the yellow daisies, yellow for the red daisies), press one into each flower center, and stipple it with a needle tool for that seed-like dot. For the sparkle, brush a little pearl mica onto the raw petals or work a touch of fine glitter into the petal clay.
Brush a thin film of liquid clay onto the back of each daisy and press it onto the teardrop in a mirrored layout, blending only the contact foot so the petals keep their raised edge. Leave small slivers of white ground showing between flowers, and keep the relief shallow so the drop stays light and the feet do not lift.
Pierce a hanging hole near the top tip of each teardrop and a matching hole in the bottom petal zone of each yellow topper, keeping a generous margin of clay back from the edge so the loop cannot tear out. Set both holes at the same height on the left and right so the finished pair hangs level; holes cannot be moved after baking, so confirm the mirror now.
Bake everything flat on a ceramic tile lined with parchment or cardstock at your clay brand's package temperature and time, with an oven thermometer to confirm the real heat. A thin teardrop can curl, so a second smooth tile laid lightly on top keeps it flat. Let the pieces cool fully before handling.
Attach the stud the most secure way for this piece. If you planned ahead, embed a textured, slightly bent flat-pad post into the raw back of the topper under a thin clay slice and bake it in so the cured clay grips it with no glue seam. If you are adding it after baking, score and alcohol-wipe the cured back and the pad, set the post with a small amount of two-part epoxy or E6000, and let it reach full cure before wear.
Open the gold jump ring by twisting the ends sideways with two pliers (never pulling them straight apart), thread it through the topper hole and the teardrop hole, and twist it closed until the ends meet flush. Wet-sand and round the teardrop edges through rising grits so they do not feel sharp or catch hair, then brush a thin water-based gloss over only the raised flowers if you want extra shine, testing it on baked scrap first.
Metal findings like posts, hooks, and jump rings may contain nickel or other allergens. If your wearer has sensitive skin, choose surgical steel or titanium findings and test any sealant or coating on a small spot before wearing.
Before you buy, match the sizes and parts to the version you want to make.
The color stock and clay body choices that carry the visible design.
Matches the raised yellow flowers repeated across the topper and the main drop.
Gets you close to the warm coral flowers that alternate with the yellow blossoms.
Needed for the visible teardrop ground that shows between the raised flowers.
Useful for pressing the petal grooves and center dots without flattening the whole flower.
Useful for bonding raw-on-raw applique, layered details, and small joins without crushing the shape.
Useful when the guide calls for controlled sparkle rather than relying only on glitter clay.
A firmer polymer clay ideal for crisp details, pixel grids, and canes to prevent distortion during slicing and assembly.
A polymer clay safe glaze that seals the piece without becoming sticky over time.
Stencils, blades, and cutters for cleaner outlines.
Hole placement, bake surface, and oven check tools.
A flat tile helps the teardrops cure evenly before you add the connector hardware.
Useful for checking the real shelf temperature before baking detailed or supported polymer clay pieces.
Useful for tiny marks, seam cleanup, piercing points, and crisp separations before baking.
Adds a subtle pearly highlight when the guide calls for mica dust after baking or on raised details.
Posts, jump rings, chain, and connectors that finish the piece.
Matches the visible flower-top hardware the worn image implies.
Needed for the short connector run between the flower stud and the teardrop drop.
Needed for opening and closing jump rings cleanly during jewelry assembly.
Useful for stud and topper builds that need a flat-pad finding after baking.
Adhesives and attachment choices when the build needs them.
Optional surface products if you want to shift sheen, sand, or coat.
Each one walks through a technique used in this piece, in full detail.
Hand-built two-color flower applique for buttons, pendants, and earrings looks deliberate when the petal layer, contrasting center disc, and tiny accent dot are built in scale relationships. This guide covers petal cutter sizing, center disc proportions, and how to seat the parts without flattening the petals.
If an inspiration piece looks like it was built from placed petals, dots, lips, stars, or tiny cut motifs, this is usually the technique family you need. Learn when to applique, when to press pieces flush, and how to keep flat builds crisp instead of lumpy.
Choose the top connection from the front view first, then keep the attachment short and balanced. Compare visible loop-tops, flat pads, short ring paths, and balance-line marks on a sample before you make the final pair.
Custom range
Ask for a build pack to make it yourself (the cutter or tool files, a supply list, and a plan), or ask the studio to make the finished pieces for you.
More pieces with a related form, finish, or making path.
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