Lookbook view
Styled context
Treat this as a starting point for a test piece, not a finished spec. AI may help explore design directions, organize notes, and draft parts of this guide. Clay brands, ovens, glues, finishes, and hardware behave differently, so check product instructions and test on scrap before making a batch. Measurements, spacing, and timing are estimates from the reference images. Test them on scrap before making a batch. Some product links on this page are affiliate links. If you buy through them, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Check listing details, dimensions, materials, and fit before you buy. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Full disclosures
Think of these as matched oval cameo plaques first, then earrings. The image pair shows flat hot-pink drops with a raised profile bust, piped bead border, and short silver chain links, not heavy sculpted medallions. Size the oval blanks first, keep the central bust low relief, and save the dotted border until both earrings match in outline and weight.
Each earring is a hot-pink oval plaque with a raised yellow-and-white cameo profile, a yellow beaded border dotted with tiny pastel accent dots, and a short silver chain into a fish-hook ear wire. Use the photos to check the lightweight drop-earring assembly, not a stud or brooch.
Use the list to check tool size, hardware placement, pad width, and slab thickness against the piece you want to make before you buy.
The color stock and clay body choices that carry the visible design.
Matches the vivid oval plaque base of each drop.
Useful for the raised profile bust and the beaded border.
Needed for the inner cameo contrast so the face does not disappear into the plaque.
Useful for the tiny pastel dots around the border if you want the same playful edge detail.
Makes it much easier to place the tiny border beads cleanly.
A polymer clay safe glaze that seals the piece without becoming sticky over time.
Stencils, blades, and cutters for cleaner outlines.
Hole placement, bake surface, and oven check tools.
Keeps the two plaques flat and matched during cure.
Useful for checking the real shelf temperature before baking detailed or supported polymer clay pieces.
Useful for tiny marks, seam cleanup, piercing points, and crisp separations before baking.
Posts, jump rings, chain, and connectors that finish the piece.
Matches the silver hook hardware visible in both images.
Useful for the short chain connector between the plaque and hook.
Needed when the finished piece hangs from connectors rather than a single solid clay body.
Needed for opening and closing jump rings cleanly during jewelry assembly.
Adhesives and attachment choices when the build needs them.
Optional surface products if you want to shift sheen, sand, or coat.
A silicone cameo profile mold is the most repeatable path to two matched low-relief portraits. Build the plaque pair first, place the busts, add the beaded border and accent dots, pierce while raw, bake flat by the clay package directions, then assemble with two jewelry pliers. Keep the relief shallow enough to bake evenly; if you lock a plain base in an early bake, add later raw details with compatible liquid clay or the bond product your clay line supports and rebake only before paint or glaze.
Condition hot pink polymer clay (such as Sculpey Soufflé for a lightweight, matte finish) and roll it to a 2mm thickness. Lightly dust an oval cutter with cornstarch as a release agent, then cut two matching oval base plaques.
Condition white and yellow FIMO Professional clay. Lightly mist a silicone cameo mold with water or dust with cornstarch. Press a small amount of white clay into the hair and collar portions of the mold, then fill the face and neck portion with yellow clay. Carefully scrape the back flat with a flexible blade, demold the dual-color bust, and repeat for the second earring.
Wipe the backs of the molded busts and the centers of the pink plaques with a damp cotton swab to remove any release agent. Gently press each bust onto the center of a pink plaque to create a secure raw bond.
Roll a thin snake of yellow clay and wrap it around the outer edge of the pink oval. Use a dotting tool to press decorative indentations along the yellow strip, creating a beaded frame. Roll tiny specks of blue and purple clay, pressing them into the indentations for a confetti effect.
Cut two silver-tone eye pins to approximately 10mm. Carefully insert one eye pin vertically into the top edge of each raw clay plaque, ensuring it is centered. Bake the pieces flat on an unglazed ceramic tile according to the clay manufacturer instructions, then let them cool completely.
Once cooled, gently pull the eye pins out, apply a tiny dab of Devcon 2-Ton Epoxy or E6000 to the metal shafts, and reinsert them into the holes to secure them (do not use brittle super glue). Clean your silver-tone jump rings, short chain segments, and fishhook ear wires with rubbing alcohol. Using flat-nose pliers, open a jump ring, thread it through the eye pin loop and the bottom link of the chain, then close it securely. Attach the top of the chain to the fishhook wire loop to complete the assembly. If sealing, use a water-based polyurethane glaze like Varathane or UV resin, and avoid solvent-based aerosol sprays.
Metal findings like posts, hooks, and jump rings may contain nickel or other allergens. If your wearer has sensitive skin, choose surgical steel or titanium findings and test any sealant or coating on a small spot before wearing.
Open these when you want more depth on a technique behind the build, not another supply row.
Face plaques, cameo-style shapes, and portrait drops stay cleaner when the silhouette is solved first, the facial planes stay low relief, and the topper or brooch hardware is planned as part of the front design rather than as an afterthought.
Pendants hang crooked or the hole tears through the top edge because the hardware was placed from the side instead of the visual center. Mark the real balance line, leave enough clay margin, and choose drilled hole, bail, or short jump ring from the finished front view.
Custom range
Use this piece as the starting point for a make-ready plan, cutter or tool model files, a supply list, or a finished range inquiry.
More pieces with a related form, finish, or making path.
Pin it to a board, copy the link, or hold it in your saved list while you sample your version.
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