Use this reference planas a maker reference, not a final spec. Some pages are researched and drafted with AI assistance, then reviewed by our team. Clay lines, ovens, tools, adhesives, and finishing products behave differently, so check your clay brand's instructions plus manufacturer safety guidance before baking, finishing, or attaching hardware.
Start with a single pink ghost plaque cut from one even slab, because both images read as a chunky stepped badge with flat yellow eyes and a black mouth block, not as a sculpted character. Cut the body first, keep the feet square, then add the face pieces and leave the brooch back for after the bake.
A quick read on the clay method, surface finish, and effort level before you start gathering tools.
Dimensions, motif spacing, and step timing below are build-ready estimates inferred from the reference image and the listed technique. Verify measurements against your own setup before cutting or assembling.
Work in sequence so the form, thickness, surface detail, and finishing stay controlled from prep through bake.
Condition the pink, yellow, and black clay, then roll the pink sheet to one even thickness before you cut anything small.
Cut the full ghost silhouette from the pink sheet first so the stepped shoulders and feet stay clean.
Add two yellow eye discs and a black mouth block as separate pieces, pressing just enough to lock them in place without softening the edges.
Bake the plaque flat on a paper-covered tile and let it cool completely before you touch the back.
Lightly prep the back surface, epoxy on a flat-pad brooch back along the centerline, and let the adhesive cure fully.
Leave the front satin or buff it lightly instead of flooding it with heavy gloss.
Start with the core build kit, then add optional finishing or hardware only if it fits the version you want to make.
Useful for the full ghost body, which does most of the visual work.
Matches the two round eyes.
Best for the stepped mouth block.
Helps you roll one even pink slab before you cut the ghost outline.
Keeps the plaque even so it stays flat and light enough to pin.
Best for the stepped feet, shoulders, and squared mouth edges.
Gives the brooch a flat support during cure.
Matches the simplest attachment path for a flat graphic brooch.
Useful for attaching the brooch back after baking.
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Read the technique guides that matter most for building this piece, refining the finish, or avoiding the most common mistakes.
Graphic lips, eyes, mushrooms, and badge-like brooches are often easier to build as flat or gently domed pixel slabs. This guide covers crisp staircase edges, stacked layers, and ways to keep left and right pieces matched.
A brooch front can look perfect and still hang poorly if the back is crooked, under-sized, or glued to a curved surface. This guide explains flat backs, balance, and more reliable attachment options to test for polymer clay pins.
Conditioning is not just softening clay. It is how you get cleaner slabs, steadier cane reduction, and sharper cut edges before the piece ever reaches the oven.
Explore adjacent builds with similar form, finish, or construction ideas.
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Start with the cutter setup, thickness control, and clay that behave predictably. Clean edges come from the system, not just the shape.
See all guides
CuttersStart with a sharp stainless cutter set in circles, arches, or ovals. Clean release and repeatable slab thickness matter more than having dozens of shapes on day one.
Starter kitA practical first order can stay focused: clay, a tile, an acrylic roller, a tissue blade, and an oven thermometer.
Keep this build handy while you test your own version.
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