Lookbook view
Styled context
Treat this as a starting point for inspiration and experimentation. The concept and reference imagery here is AI-assisted, and AI helped organize the maker notes. Clay brands, ovens, glues, finishes, and hardware behave differently, so check product instructions and test on scrap before making a batch. Measurements, spacing, and timing are estimates from the reference images. Test them on scrap before making a batch. Some product links on this page are affiliate links. If you buy through them, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Check listing details, dimensions, materials, and fit before you buy. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Full disclosures
This is a matched pair of two-tier dangle earrings: a small hot-pink stepped flower studs at the lobe, a short double strand of fine silver chain, and a larger matching flower hanging below, each with a solid neon-yellow square center on a flat, glossy front. The whole charm read comes from one stepped-petal flower silhouette used at two sizes. Cut all four flowers from a single even pink slab so the pair matches, set the yellow centers, and place the chain holes while the clay is still flat. Bake the plaques flat, smooth the stepped edges, then build the stud-chain-drop stack after cure.
A mirrored pair. Each ear carries a small stepped pixel-flower stud at the lobe, a short two-strand fine silver chain, then a larger matching stepped flower drop. Both flowers are flat hot-pink plaques with a centered solid neon-yellow square and a high-gloss lacquered front, hung from silver ball stud posts with silver jump rings.
Flat color-block plaque build. The simplest path is a two-color cut-and-inset slab: roll one even hot-pink slab, cut the stepped flowers, and press a yellow square into each center. The pixel-grid look can also come from a built pixel slab (uniform tiles rolled flush) or a cane sliced thin, but for a single yellow square the cut-and-inset method is the cleanest. Every flower is cut from one slab with one cutter so the four pieces match, and the chain holes are placed before baking.
Condition the hot-pink and yellow clay to one consistent firmness, then roll the pink into one even slab using matched slab-height guides so the top studs and the larger drops all share the same thickness. A thin, even slab keeps the finished pair light on the ear.
Make a matched mirrored set: cut two small flowers and two larger flowers from the same pink slab with the same stepped cutter at each size, cutting from adjacent areas so the pattern and color read together. Press the cutter straight down and lift cleanly so the stepped petals stay crisp; a light dust of cornstarch releases a sticky cutter and bakes off.
Pattern option A (cut-and-inset, matches the image): cut a small yellow square for each flower, wipe any release powder off the joining faces, brush a thin film of liquid polymer clay on the back of each square, and press it into the center so it seats flush and bonds in the bake.
Pattern option B (built pixel slab): build a small checkerboard of uniform yellow and pink squares pressed edge to edge, roll it lightly flush, then cut the flower so the grid runs through it. This reads more pixelated than the single-square look in the photo.
Pattern option C (sliced cane): build a simple square cane of yellow wrapped in pink, rest it a day, reduce it center-out, and slice thin even sections to lay onto each flower before a light re-roll. Use this when you want many identical centers across a batch.
Mirror and re-roll check: flip one flower of each size so the pair reflects rather than repeats, and confirm both small flowers match and both large flowers match in size and pattern before you set holes.
Place the holes while flat: on each small stud flower mark one hole near the bottom edge for the chain; on each large drop flower mark one hole near the top edge. Keep every hole the same distance from the edge and leave a generous clay margin so the loop will not tear out. Use a needle tool or bead hole maker, since holes cannot be moved after curing.
Bake the four flowers flat on a smooth ceramic tile lined with cardstock or parchment, following your clay brand's package temperature and time and checking the oven with a thermometer. A paper-lined tile keeps the backs matte and holds thin plaques flat so they do not warp; tent thin pieces with an index card if your oven scorches high points.
Let everything cool fully, then wet-sand the stepped edges through rising grits (keep the paper wet) so they are rounded and do not catch hair or feel sharp. Round the edge rather than cutting a new flat.
Finishing: test your water-based gloss on a baked scrap of the same clay first, then brush several thin coats on the fronts for the lacquered shine. Let each coat dry hard and non-tacky.
If a baked hole is tight or rough, drill it clean with a pin vise only after the clay is fully cool and ream out the burrs so a jump ring passes easily.
Attach the small stud flower to a silver ball stud post. The looped-post style lets you join it with a jump ring; if you use a flat-pad post instead, embed the textured, slightly bent pad under a thin clay slice before baking for a hold with no glue seam, or score and alcohol-wipe the cured back and set the pad with two-part epoxy after baking, letting it reach full cure before wear.
Dry-fit the whole pair front-forward, confirm both ears hang at the same length and the flowers face out, then close the last rings.
Metal findings like posts, hooks, and jump rings may contain nickel or other allergens. If your wearer has sensitive skin, choose surgical steel or titanium findings and test any sealant or coating on a small spot before wearing.
Before you buy, match the sizes and parts to the version you want to make.
The color stock and clay body choices that carry the visible design.
This gets you close to the saturated flower petals in the image pair.
Use this for the bright center squares so the flowers keep the same sharp contrast.
A firmer polymer clay ideal for crisp details, pixel grids, and canes to prevent distortion during slicing and assembly.
What you condition with and how you keep the slab even.
Stencils, blades, and cutters for cleaner outlines.
Useful for cutting the stepped flower edges and trimming the center squares cleanly.
ClayBake makes matched cutter packs sized to this build, so repeated shapes stay consistent. Print or order the set from our tools.
Hole placement, bake surface, and oven check tools.
Posts, jump rings, chain, and connectors that finish the piece.
Matches the stud-top look and gives you a clean place to hang the flower drops.
Creates the short chain section between the flower topper and the larger drop.
Needed when the finished piece hangs from connectors rather than a single solid clay body.
Adhesives and attachment choices when the build needs them.
Optional surface products if you want to shift sheen, sand, or coat.
Adds the candy-bright shine visible on the finished flowers.
A lightweight clay with a cohesive suede finish that holds fine textures without sticky residue.
A polymer-clay-compatible glaze option for a glossy finish. Test it on baked scrap before using it on the finished piece.
Each one walks through a technique used in this piece, in full detail.
Your slab cracked at the edge, your cutter dragged, or one color distorted more than the rest. Condition until every color folds the same way, then do the fold test before you cut.
Choose the top connection from the front view first, then keep the attachment short and balanced. Compare visible loop-tops, flat pads, short ring paths, and balance-line marks on a sample before you make the final pair.
Custom range
Ask for a build pack to make it yourself (the cutter or tool files, a supply list, and a plan), or ask the studio to make the finished pieces for you.
More pieces with a related form, finish, or making path.
Pin it to a board, copy the link, or keep it saved here while you make your own version.
Tag Clay Bake Studio on Instagram or TikTok so we can see how you adapted it.
