Hot Pink Pixel Flower Double Chain Dangle Earrings

Condition the hot-pink and yellow clay to one consistent firmness, then roll the pink into one even slab using matched slab-height guides so the top studs and the larger drops all share the same thickness. A thin, even slab keeps the finished pair light on the ear.

Make a matched mirrored set: cut two small flowers and two larger flowers from the same pink slab with the same stepped cutter at each size, cutting from adjacent areas so the pattern and color read together. Press the cutter straight down and lift cleanly so the stepped petals stay crisp; a light dust of cornstarch releases a sticky cutter and bakes off.

Pattern option A (cut-and-inset, matches the image): cut a small yellow square for each flower, wipe any release powder off the joining faces, brush a thin film of liquid polymer clay on the back of each square, and press it into the center so it seats flush and bonds in the bake.

Pattern option B (built pixel slab): build a small checkerboard of uniform yellow and pink squares pressed edge to edge, roll it lightly flush, then cut the flower so the grid runs through it. This reads more pixelated than the single-square look in the photo.

Pattern option C (sliced cane): build a simple square cane of yellow wrapped in pink, rest it a day, reduce it center-out, and slice thin even sections to lay onto each flower before a light re-roll. Use this when you want many identical centers across a batch.

Mirror and re-roll check: flip one flower of each size so the pair reflects rather than repeats, and confirm both small flowers match and both large flowers match in size and pattern before you set holes.

Place the holes while flat: on each small stud flower mark one hole near the bottom edge for the chain; on each large drop flower mark one hole near the top edge. Keep every hole the same distance from the edge and leave a generous clay margin so the loop will not tear out. Use a needle tool or bead hole maker, since holes cannot be moved after curing.

Bake the four flowers flat on a smooth ceramic tile lined with cardstock or parchment, following your clay brand's package temperature and time and checking the oven with a thermometer. A paper-lined tile keeps the backs matte and holds thin plaques flat so they do not warp; tent thin pieces with an index card if your oven scorches high points.

Let everything cool fully, then wet-sand the stepped edges through rising grits (keep the paper wet) so they are rounded and do not catch hair or feel sharp. Round the edge rather than cutting a new flat.

Finishing: test your water-based gloss on a baked scrap of the same clay first, then brush several thin coats on the fronts for the lacquered shine. Let each coat dry hard and non-tacky.

If a baked hole is tight or rough, drill it clean with a pin vise only after the clay is fully cool and ream out the burrs so a jump ring passes easily.

Build the stack after cure: open a jump ring sideways with two pliers, link the bottom hole of each small stud flower to two parallel strands of fine silver chain, and link the other end of the chain to the top hole of each large drop flower. Twist the rings closed so the cut ends sit flush.

Attach the small stud flower to a silver ball stud post. The looped-post style lets you join it with a jump ring and needs no glue; if you use a flat-pad post instead, embed the textured, slightly bent pad under a thin clay slice before baking for a hold with no glue seam, or after baking sand the spot on the cured back to bare clay, wipe it and the pad with isopropyl alcohol, and glue the pad on with a small dot of gel super glue, waiting the full label cure time before wear.

Dry-fit the whole pair front-forward, confirm both ears hang at the same length and the flowers face out, then close the last rings.