Maker reference only. Verify brand instructions, seller details, dimensions, and safety guidance for your own setup.
Start with one square yellow cat-face tile and notch the ears into the top edge, because the pair reads as flat graphic plaques with pink corner blocks rather than sculpted cat heads. Once both yellow blanks match, add the pink pieces and keep the stud connector centered above the face.
A quick read on the clay method, surface finish, and effort level before you start gathering tools.
Dimensions, motif spacing, and step timing below are build-ready estimates inferred from the reference image and the listed technique. Verify measurements against your own setup before cutting or assembling.
Work in sequence so the form, thickness, surface detail, and finishing stay controlled from prep through bake.
Roll one even yellow sheet and cut both cat-face tiles before you place any pink details.
Trim the ear notches into the top edge so both silhouettes match before the clay warms up.
Add the pink corner and center blocks with light pressure so the edges stay square and the face stays flat.
Pierce the top hole on the centerline above the face before baking.
Bake the pair flat on a tile, let them cool completely, and clean the holes only if they tighten.
Connect the cured tiles to the silver stud tops with short rings so they move a little without twisting away from the viewer.
Metal findings like posts, hooks, and jump rings may contain nickel or other allergens. If you have sensitive skin, choose surgical steel or titanium findings and test any sealant or coating on a small area before wearing.
Start with the core build kit, then add optional finishing or hardware only if it fits the version you want to make.
This core kit covers the repeatable clay, clean-cut tools, and hardware setup that most pixel earring variants share.
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Useful for the full cat-face tile and ear-notched silhouette.
Matches the corner blocks and center tile details.
Helps you keep the yellow face tiles even before you cut the ear notches.
Useful for keeping both cat tiles light and matched.
Best for the ear notches and the square pink inserts.
Helps place the top hole above the face without distorting the ears.
Matches the silver stud tops visible in both images.
Lets you recreate the short connector drop above each cat tile.
Read the technique guides that matter most for building this piece, refining the finish, or avoiding the most common mistakes.
Graphic lips, eyes, mushrooms, and badge-like brooches are often easier to build as flat or gently domed pixel slabs. This guide covers crisp staircase edges, stacked layers, and ways to keep left and right pieces matched.
Many polymer clay drop earrings fail at the top: the stud sits too far back, the ring run is too long, or the drop twists sideways. This guide covers when to use visible stud toppers, when a flat pad is enough, and how to keep connector rings short and balanced.
If an inspiration piece looks like it was built from placed petals, dots, lips, stars, or tiny cut motifs, this is usually the technique family you need. Learn when to applique, when to press pieces flush, and how to keep flat builds crisp instead of lumpy.
Explore adjacent builds with similar form, finish, or construction ideas.
Start with posts, glue, and cutters before you obsess over the silhouette. Those three decisions do the most work for clean alignment and fewer failures.
See all guides
Many makers reach for a two-part epoxy when they want slower setup time for post placement. Treat every adhesive as a test-first choice, especially if the clay, finding, finish, or prep routine changes.
Use flat-pad posts with clear material specs when you want a common, easy-to-source assembly starting point. If you add titanium, verify the listing details and material spec before you position it as a separate hardware option.
Keep this build handy while you test your own version.
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