Maker reference only. Verify brand instructions, seller details, dimensions, and safety guidance for your own setup.
Start with three separate open slab links, because both images show the yellow, pale-blue, and coral-pink parts assembled after cure rather than fused into one hanging charm. Keep the links light, make the openings generous enough for jump rings, and let the gold hardware do the connecting later.
A quick read on the clay method, surface finish, and effort level before you start gathering tools.
Dimensions, motif spacing, and step timing below are build-ready estimates inferred from the reference image and the listed technique. Verify measurements against your own setup before cutting or assembling.
Work in sequence so the form, thickness, surface detail, and finishing stay controlled from prep through bake.
Roll all three colors to the same thickness so the links stay balanced once they are stacked.
Cut the yellow, blue, and coral links as separate open shapes, and clean the inner openings while the clay is still cool.
Check that each opening is wide enough for jump rings before baking, because the links do not rely on drilled holes later.
Bake every link flat on a ceramic tile and cool fully before you test the hardware.
Attach the top link to the gold ball-stud loop with a jump ring, then add the center and lower links one by one.
Leave the surface matte or softly buffed so the color blocking stays graphic instead of candy-coated.
Metal findings like posts, hooks, and jump rings may contain nickel or other allergens. If you have sensitive skin, choose surgical steel or titanium findings and test any sealant or coating on a small area before wearing.
Start with the core build kit, then add optional finishing or hardware only if it fits the version you want to make.
This core kit covers the repeatable clay, clean-cut tools, and hardware setup that most pixel earring variants share.
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Useful for the top link that sets the color rhythm for the whole drop.
Matches the cool center bar that separates the two warmer links.
Useful for the lower link that finishes the stack with a warmer accent than hot pink.
Helps you keep every link the same sheet thickness before you cut the openings.
Useful for keeping the stacked links light enough to wear while still strong enough for assembly.
Makes it easier to clean the outer edges and the inner link openings without tearing the corners.
Matches the top finding visible in the product and lifestyle images.
Lets you connect the three cured links without forcing raw clay to flex like real chain.
Read the technique guides that matter most for building this piece, refining the finish, or avoiding the most common mistakes.
Graphic lips, eyes, mushrooms, and badge-like brooches are often easier to build as flat or gently domed pixel slabs. This guide covers crisp staircase edges, stacked layers, and ways to keep left and right pieces matched.
Conditioning is not just softening clay. It is how you get cleaner slabs, steadier cane reduction, and sharper cut edges before the piece ever reaches the oven.
Explore adjacent builds with similar form, finish, or construction ideas.
Start with glue, post hardware, and hole placement that keep the drop centered, then use cutters to clean up the silhouette.
See all guides
Many makers reach for a two-part epoxy when they want slower setup time for post placement. Treat every adhesive as a test-first choice, especially if the clay, finding, finish, or prep routine changes.
Use flat-pad posts with clear material specs when you want a common, easy-to-source assembly starting point. If you add titanium, verify the listing details and material spec before you position it as a separate hardware option.
Keep this build handy while you test your own version.
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