The pictures began as AI-assisted concept images and are here for inspiration. The steps are a guide to making your own version, so change the colours, size or details as you like. Clay brands, ovens, glues, finishes and hardware behave differently, so follow their product instructions and bake a scrap before a batch. Some product links on this page are affiliate links. If you buy through them, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Check listing details, dimensions, materials, and fit before you buy. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Full disclosures
This hot-pink and yellow scallop collar reads as two overlapping rows of flat petal-shaped discs riding on a thin curved band that sits right at the base of the neck. The back row is larger acid-yellow scallops; the front row alternates slightly smaller hot-pink and yellow discs, so the bottom hem comes out as a wavy scalloped edge. The whole front is one rigid arc, not loose dangling pendants, joined at the back by a gold chain and lobster clasp. The real work is getting the band to curve to the collarbone and baking it on a form so it holds that shape. Below are the proven ways to cut the discs, build the band, and close it.
A rigid curved collar that sits at the base of the neck, built from two overlapping rows of flat scallop discs: a back row of larger acid-yellow petals and a front row alternating smaller hot-pink and yellow petals, so the lower edge reads as a wavy scalloped hem. Surfaces are smooth matte slab with a soft sheen, not high gloss. A gold-tone chain extender and lobster clasp bridge the two collar ends at the back.
Lookbook view
Slab cutting and color-blocked layering over a curved collar band, baked on a form so the arc holds. You roll an even slab, cut a slim curved band plus two rows of scallop discs, overlap the discs along the band like fish scales, then shape and bake the whole piece on an oven-safe curved form with support so the wide front does not slump. Closure hardware goes on the chilled, cured ends.
Condition the hot-pink and acid-yellow clay fully, mixing enough of each color for the whole collar at once so the tone stays consistent. Roll even slabs against thickness guide strips, flipping and rotating so the thickness is the same end to end.
Build the curved band. Cut a slim crescent band from a paper template that follows the slope from the neck out toward the collarbone. Band option A - cut it from a single slab and keep it thicker than it looks like it needs to be, since a thin band is the first thing to crack. Band option B - for a wider or heavier collar, brush bake-and-bond or a thin coat of liquid clay on the back and press a matching backing slab on, then trim clean, so the doubled band carries the weight. For extra insurance at the thin end tabs, lay a short length of jewelry wire or an eye pin into the raw clay before baking so metal carries the stress.
Cut the scallop discs. Disc option A - cut flat teardrop or petal shapes directly with a scallop or teardrop cutter for a clean repeated edge. Disc option B - cut circles with a round cutter and trim or overlap them so the exposed rounded bottoms form the scalloped hem. Cut a back row of larger acid-yellow discs and a front row of slightly smaller hot-pink and yellow discs. Chill the cut discs a few minutes so the edges stay crisp when you place them.
Lay the design out from the center and work toward both ends so the spacing stays even. Wipe any release powder off the contact faces with a damp swab first. Set the larger yellow back row along the band, then overlap the front row of alternating pink and yellow discs below them like fish scales, pressing each disc gently at the top edge to bond it to the band.
Pierce a clean hole at each end of the band with a needle tool, set in from the edge so the tab will not tear, for the jump rings that take the chain.
Smooth the inside edge of the band with a fingertip or a swab of isopropyl alcohol so it has no sharp lip against the neck, and relax any fingerprints on the discs the same way before baking.
Shape the raw collar over the oven-safe curved form so the arc matches the collarbone, since the clay sets in whatever curve it holds during the bake. Form option A - drape it over a metal neck mandrel or a glass jar laid on its side. Form option B - bend foil into the curve and cover it with parchment. Cradle the wide front in polyester fiberfill so no span is left bridging a gap.
Bake the supported collar on its form at your clay brand's package temperature and time, going by the thickest part. Keep the form metal, glass, or ceramic; leave plastic display busts out of the oven. If the piece sits near the top element, tent it loosely with an inverted foil pan so the surface does not scorch.
Bake-and-set option (for a wide span that tends to relax) - while the piece is still warm and slightly flexible out of the oven, lay it back on the form, press it to the exact curve you want, and hold until it cools so the drape locks in true.
Let the collar cool fully, then wet-sand the outer and inner edges through rising grits until smooth. Keep the matte read by skipping a thick glaze; if you want a little protection, brush a thin water-based finish and test it on a baked scrap first.
Closure option A - clean the gold jump rings, lobster clasp, and chain with isopropyl alcohol, then open each jump ring by twisting the ends sideways past each other (not pulling them straight apart), link the chain and clasp to the pierced end holes, and twist each ring closed flush. Add an extender length so the collar fits a range of necks.
Closure option B - make a matching clay toggle: a rolled clay ring and a bar a touch longer than the ring opening, each with an embedded wire loop, baked and then linked to the band ends with jump rings. Size the bar longer than the ring so it stays seated under the collar's weight.
Jump rings and chain need no glue. Where a metal finding must be glued to cured clay, sand the spot to bare clay, lightly roughen the metal, wipe both with isopropyl alcohol, and glue it with a small dot of gel super glue such as Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel Control or Gorilla Super Glue Gel. Leave the glue for its full label cure time before dry-fitting the collar on a form and checking the hang.
Metal findings like posts, hooks, and jump rings may contain nickel or other allergens. If your wearer has sensitive skin, choose surgical steel or titanium findings and test any sealant or coating on a small spot before wearing.
What you will need
Before you buy, match the sizes and parts to the version you want to make.
Matches the saturated hot pink scallops in the front row of the collar.
Useful for the bright yellow scallops that alternate through the layered collar build.
Cut two short lengths to bridge the collar ends at the back, one of them longer to act as the extender. It is plain chain, so the clasp and jump rings come separately.
The lobster clasp closes the back of the collar, and the open jump rings link the chain and clasp to the pierced hole at each end of the band.
Tick what you already have, then get only what is missing.
Helps you keep the curved base and the scallop discs at a repeatable thickness.
Roll every sheet to the same calibrated thickness with the ClayBake slab height guides.
Useful for trimming the collar base and cleaning the outer curve before the scallops go on.
ClayBake makes matched cutter packs sized to this build, so repeated shapes stay consistent. 3D print or order the set from our tools.
Useful for marking connector points at the ends of the curved collar base before baking.
A lightweight clay with a cohesive suede finish that holds fine textures without sticky residue.
Optional extras for a different finish, size or fix.
Useful for smoothing the outer edge of the collar base after bake without adding a thick coat.
Each one walks through a technique used in this piece, in full detail.
Statement collars go wrong when you guess the neckline arc too late, build the front pieces as loose pendants, or let the collar flatten or relax in the oven. This guide gives the curved-base build order for rigid collar necklaces and layered bibs.
Bake flat pieces on a glossy tile and move them onto plain card only for a matte back. Hold curves, limbs and overhangs with fiberfill, crumpled foil or an oven-safe glass form, bake round beads on skewers, and leave everything on its support until it feels cool.
Custom range
Ask for a build pack to make it yourself (the cutter or tool files, a supply list, and a plan), or ask the studio to make the finished pieces for you.
More pieces with a related form, finish, or making path.
Pin it to a board, copy the link, or keep it saved here while you make your own version.
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